The EU is cracking down on textiles for the better.

The textile industry has come a long way in terms ofsustainability. Mills are realising the true benefits of adoptingenvironmentally friendly practices, and organisations are starting to hold themills accountable for their actions. One such organisation is the EuropeanCommission, and their involvement makes sense seeing as though countries withinthe European Union are the second leading exporter of textiles (as of 2018).Just last year, the commission released the “European Green Deal”, whichcontains some fairly strict guidelines for how mills and companies shouldimplement and prioritise energy efficiency, as well as the circular economymethodology. The creation of the Green Deal has left many wondering just howmuch the textile and apparel industries will be affected, and how the policieswill be enforced by the commission.

So, What is theEuropean Green Deal?

The European Green Deal is a collection of measures andpolicies presented by the European Commission to help Europe’s citizens andbusinesses cut emissions, invest in environmental research, and preserve theenvironment overall. According to the commission’s website, “The Green Deal canbe a new EU growth strategy, and the commitment of all participants is crucialto its success.” In terms of the industries it enacts policies, there areseveral:

•    Energy - Decarbonising and prioritisingenergy efficiency.

•    Manufacturing and Production - Producing new goods thatutilize the circular model.

•    Construction - Building designs should be inline with the circular economy, and energy use must be regulated closely.

•    Transportation - Emissions from transport mustbe reduced, and freight/cargo should be transported via rail and/or water.

•    Biodiversity - Encourage imports that do notcreate deforestation, as well as replenishment of forests.

•    Pollution - Reduce pollution from largeindustrial installations, and develop sustainable alternatives to variouschemicals.

The Green Deal andTextiles

The European Commission released a consumer agenda back in2012 that outlines a framework for regulating consumer goods, and aligns policyto change.

Here are some of the agenda’s key objectives.Specifically, in relation to apparel and textiles:

•    Supplyfactory workers with a living wage.

•    Prioritisetransparency and traceability throughout supply chains.

•    Encouragethe development of processing technologies for the recycling of raw materials.

•    EnforceReach, the Regulation, Evaluation, and Authorisation of Chemicals.

•    EnforceEU EcoLabel criteria for textiles.

Concerns About theGreen Deal

According to a document released by the EuropeanCommission in December, the Circular Economy Action Plan will encourage thetextile industry to avoid or minimise waste by limiting the amount of packagingand substantiate and “green claims” made, also known as greenwashing. Whilethis all sounds promising, there is a question of how these changes can beimplemented. Consumers must be as engaged and involved as companies in orderfor this to really work. So, brands will need to get creative (perhaps,offering incentives to those who participate in recycling programmes). Theother challenge facing the industry is making this transition cost-effective.The question is: Can all of these changes be made while keeping costs down? Itcan be done, it will just take some careful planning and strategy.

Green-Deal-FriendlyTextiles

The following fibres meet several of the Green Deal’scriteria, whether they utilise recycled materials in the production or use lesswater.

Repreve

Repreve is a new fibre made from recycled plastic bottles.The fabric is moisture-wicking, has adaptive warming and cooling properties,and is very durable. The production of Repreve emits fewer greenhouse gases andconserves energy and water in the process.

Supima

One of the main messages of the Green Deal is, “If youcan’t completely reduce or eliminate resources, try to conserve them.” Whilethe sustainability of standard cotton might be questionable, the sustainablenature of Supima cotton is not. The fields that Supima cotton is grown on arelaser-leveled to maximise water use, and crops are rotated regularly to optimisesoil health. And, one more thing: Supima is traceable!

Refibra

Tencel is an environmentally responsible textile that isextremely versatile. Lenzing, the company behind Tencel, has developed a newvariety of the fiber that utilises Refibra technology. Refibra is a method oftextile recycling that involves recycling cotton scraps and wood pulp.

The European Commission has made a goal to make Europe theworld’s first climate-neutral continent by 2050, and the Green Deal is thefirst step towards making this a reality. Something to keep in mind, however,is that the success of the Green Deal is dependent on the cooperation of theentire planet. Several countries export materials and other goods to Europe toaid in production, so they must be just as committed to the mission. The EU usa strong voice in the global community, and we should all lean in to discoverhow we can do our part.

This article has not been edited by SBS Zipperstaff and is re-published with permission from synzenbe.com

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